Thai Silk: A Buyer’s Guide

A basic understanding of  what exactly is Thai silk is crucial to being a smart consumer. 


Nothing speaks to old Thai traditions more eloquently than Thai silk. It is a cultural touchstone of The Kingdom. But the Thai silk market can be treacherous with its outright counterfeits and low-quality but overpriced offers.

This tutorial about Thai silk is intended to give you a basic consumer knowledge about buying this complex fabric while on your trip to Thailand. I’ll explain in layman’s terms the different types of silk fabrics; how to recognize counterfeit silk (buyer beware!); the difference between quality and inferior silk; and of course the best places to purchase silk fabric in The Kingdom.

My goal is to educate you as a consumer. Knowledge breeds confidence and you need to shop with confidence. Also, knowing some basics about your silk purchase will make you enjoy and appreciate this fabric even more.

Above Photo: Fake Thai silk for sale at a street market in Chiang Mai. These fakes are 100% polyester although labeled 100% Thai silk.

Most importantly, always keep in mind that with Thai silk, the journey is always as valuable as the destination. Thai silk is a gateway to Old Siam and a culture that’s quickly disappearing.

This article is about woven Thai silk fabrics. I also wrote another article entitled “Thai Sericulture: Making Silk” which deals with producing raw silk and yarn making. “Thai Silk: A Buyer’s Guide” and “Thai Sericulture: Making Silk” are companion pieces to understanding how Thai silk fabrics are made.

Thai Silk Basics

Many Thai silk aficionados consider handwoven Thai silk the finest fabric on Earth. The silk fabric above is so complex that this expert weaver (along with 3 other helpers) can only produce several centimeters of fabric a day.

The finest silk in the world is handwoven in rural Thailand, with much of it being woven in the Northeast part of the country, commonly known as Esaan. Northern Thailand, in and around Chiang Mai and Lamphun, also produce exquisite brocaded silks from which the finest Thai couture is made.

Thai silk is still produced on old wooden looms that have been passed down through generations, from mother to daughter along with their weaving expertise. Some looms can be quite small, while others may stand thirty feet tall and take three women to operate.

Ban Ta-Sa-Wang
A master weaver carefully works on a bolt of brocaded Thai silk in Ban Ta-Sa-Wang. Many silk enthusiasts say that this village produces the finest silk in The Kingdom.

The world of Thai silk mostly belongs to women. Women, for the most part, operate the looms, make the silk yarns, dye the yarns and design the patterns. Men usually produce raw silk and engage in sericulture. They may also procure and haul needed materials for weaving (fabric is very heavy), but the actual creation of silk fabric is a woman’s world.

A History 3000 Years Old

Silk in what is now Thailand goes back 3,000 years to an excavated village called Baan Chiang near the northern city of Udon Thani. This is the oldest known village in Indochina and archeologists found silk threads there. (Remember China first developed silk almost 5,000 years ago.)

No one knows how silk thread came to Baan Chiang. Did silk traders from China bring it? Or did Baan Chiang inhabitants engage in sericulture and made the silk thread themselves? No one is certain.

Thai silk history goes completely dark until the mid-1800s when Royal Court records mention silk production in the old Kingdom of Siam. In the 1950s, Thai silk weaving was all but dead, but since then has staged a miraculous comeback.

How Thai Silk Is Created

Below is a simple, yet comprehensive overview as to how both traditional Thai silk and Thai silk yarn (thread) are produced. This video was produced by The Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. Watching this video will give you a great overview of Thai silk and you’ll better understand this tutorial.

Raw Thai silk is still made the old fashioned way in Thailand. Silk worm larvae take their holy communion of specially cultivated mulberry leaves. The silk worm then spins its cocoon by secreting a single strand of silk filament, sometimes as long as 1,500 feet.

Bombyx Mori
The silkworm bombyx mori produces over 90% of world silk. It’s also referred to as mulberry silk.

Before the silk worm can leave it’s cocoon and metamorphose into a moth, the pods are collected and heated, killing the silk worm inside. In sericulture (the production of silk) the silkworm must be killed before leaving its cocoon to preserve the unbroken length of the cocoon’s single silk filament.

Thai villagers produce their own silk and make their own silk yarns for weaving.

Heating the cocoon in hot water softens the gummy substance which binds together the cocoon. After heating, the cocoon’s single silk filament begins to unwind and by a process called “reeling” can be gathered for the beginning of the yarn making process.

Making silk yarn that is fit for weaving is quite complicated, involving many steps. I detail this process in “Thai Sericulture: Making Silk“.

No doubt a visitor from another planet would find us humans a strange bunch indeed hearing that we covet a fabric made from the secretions of a worm.

The Thai silk trade. From silkworm secretion to haute couture.

Types of Thai Silk Fabric

When buying Thai silk, you’ll generally encounter four types: brocaded, dupioni, mudmee and plain weave. Yes, there are more types of weave, and of course every village produces their own unique silk, but almost all Thai silks will fall into these three catagories.

Brocaded Thai Silk

Brocaded Thai silk alongside white and yellow silk cocoons and silk weft threads.

Brocaded Thai silk is a weave that gives the fabric an embossed or raised quality. The fabric is not at all smooth, but is raised in a manner that creates a pattern in and of itself.

Weaving brocaded silk requires the most expertise and patience of all the various silk weaves. Quality brocaded Thai silk will cost roughly from $200-$600 and will take the weaver about a month to produce. (If you purchase in Bangkok, the price may be higher.)

Brocaded silks are often found in Northern Thailand and they’re known for their delicate, pastel colors. Brocaded silks are often used in making the finest Thai silk couture and can command very high prices. It’s not unusual for the finest brocaded Thai silk to cost $1,000 or more for a 2-4 meter bolt.

Brocaded Thai Silk from Lamphun Province. If you run your hands over this fabric you will feel the pattern. Brocading is accomplished by weaving the horizontal threads (the weft) over the vertical threads (the warp).

I wrote a blog article with lots of photos about brocaded silk entitled “A Silk Safari to Ban Ta-Sa-Wang“.

Dupioni Thai Silk


Thai Dupioni silk is one of the most common types of silk fabric in The Kingdom. It can be either solid color or patterned and its prices can be quite reasonable.

Dupioni silk intentionally has many fabric knots, bumps, and “fatties” which give the fabric great character. These fabric inconsistencies are called slubs and are crucial to recognizing authentic Thai silk from its counterfeits. (I will explain slubbing and its relevance a little later.)

Classic dupioni silk is woven from silk yarns made from the dupion silk cocoon. A dupion silk cocoon is where two silkworms inhabit a single cocoon, or where two cocoons have have melded together like Siamese twins joined at the hip. For complex reasons, dupion cocoons produce a very rough silk filament and so yarns made with dupion are rough and uneven. Weaving with this “rough” silk yarn will yield a wonderfully textured fabric we call dupioni.

I often choose dupioni silk to make special Thai silk pillows. The red silk fisherman pants, worn by our model in an above photo, is made from dupioni silk.

Dupioni silk is generally sold by the meter, not the bolt. In the weaving villages of Esaan I have found good quality dupioni for between $12-20/meter. (But beware of very cheap dupioni as it may not be 100% silk or woven with a low grade, spun silk yarn.

Mudmee Silk

Mudmee silk in Thailand
A display of mudmee silk at a silk shop in Ban Ta-Sa-Wang in the Esaan region of Thailand near Surin.

Mudmee silk (also known as ikat weaving) is the oldest form of pattern weaving in The Kingdom. In mudmee weaving, the fabric’s pattern is tie-dyed onto a single silk thread (the horizontal weft yarn) much like human DNA is encoded with our genetics. As the fabric is woven, the pattern encoded on the single weft yarn will create the pattern.

A loom strung for Mudmee weaving. A single color coded thread creates the pattern and must be precisely tie-dyed to create the pattern.

Mudmee silk is usually woven in Isaan, although weavers in the north occasionally produce it. It is considered by some to be the finest of all Thai silk. The complexity of the patterns is astounding and the skill of the weavers to produce this type of silk is at its highest.

Prices for quality mudmee silk can vary tremedously, depending on quality. You can find good quality mudmee for $100/1.5 meter bolt (sarong lenght). But a bolt of mudmee made with the finest reeled silk yarns and natural dyes can cost upwards of $500 in Esaan.

I wrote an entire blog article entitled “Thai Fabrics: Mudmee” that goes into great detail about this legendary fabric.

Plain Weave Thai Silk

Plain weave Thai silk
Plain weave Thai silk. Simple and economical.

Plain weave Thai silk is a smooth (not soft!) textured fabric. Thai silk tip: If the solid color Thai silk has a rough texture with bumps and nits, it’s dupioni Thai silk, not a plain weave.

Plain weave Thai silk is the easiest to weave because it’s a single color and there is no brocading. Plain weaves are often machine woven, although you can find plenty of bolts of handwoven plain weaves in the silk weaving villages of Esaan (Northeast Thailand). Almost all the plain weave silk that you’ll find in Bangkok was woven on a mechanical loom.

Shimmering, an attribute for which Thai silk is famous, is usually easily seen in plain weaves. Undulate the fabric slowly and you’ll see it changing colors. This effect is done by using different colored silk yarns for the vertical (the warp) and horizontal (the weft).

Plains weaves are the most economical of all Thai silk fabric because of the simplicity of its weave. An experienced weaver can produce on a hand loom approximately 12-15 meters a day. (Some complicated brocades are handwoven at a rate of about 3-4 centimeters a day!)

A good quality plain weave will cost between $12-$18/yard. The quality of a machine woven plain weave is determined wholly by the quality of the silk yarns used. (Again, for an in depth explanation about silk yarns, please see: “Thai Sericulture: Making Silk“.)

Where to Buy Thai Silk

Fabric stores though out Thailand can offer you an array of authentic silk. Above is one of my favorite silk shops in Chonobot.

The golden rule for buying silk is to know your seller!

Of course you can’t personally know a silk vendor personally as a tourist; but you can fairly easily know their reputation and recognize the indicia of trustworthiness and quality. After almost two decades of buying Thai silk, I still never violate this golden rule.

Stay Away From Tourist Markets!

Where NOT to buy Thai silk is the most important information I can give you, so I want to address this issue first.

Authentic, quality Thai silk is not sold at Thai street markets, night bizzars, “walking streets” or other tourist oriented places. There are vendors at these tourist markets who may try to sell you Thai silk, but rest assured, their silk is either counterfeit or at best a very low grade silk that can’t be sold elsewhere.

Almost all alleged “Thai Silk” found at tourist markets or souviener shops are fake. This fabric is 100% polyester, eventhough it has a sewn label claiming to be 100% Thai silk.

There are no bargains in the Thai silk trade, only fair deals. If you think you can find silk at bargain basement prices, you’re going to get ripped off with a pile of polyester.

The woman that spent a lot of time and expertise weaving the fabric certainly knows the market value of her product. The fabric store owner certainly knows the market rates for the product he’s been buying/selling for years. The village silk weaving cooperative certainly knows the value of their silk. So why would they sell their Thai silk at a tourist market at 1/10th the price that they could sell it elsewhere?

As great example of this principle are tourists who purchase little fake silk scarves at a tourist market. The cost of the quality reeled silk yarn needed to weave a small scarf is about $15. So just how is it that you’re only paying $3-$5 for the item. Easy answer: The little, cheap scarf is machine made with 100% polyester yarns.

When you try to buy Thai silk at a tourist market, you’re violating the golden rule of knowing your seller. More than that, you’re quickly identifying yourself to the seller as someone who doesn’t know anything about Thai silk.

Counterfeits and slick sellers can be very persuasive, especially with the gullible. Again, there are no bargains in the Thai silk trade. You get what you pay for! Stay away from tourist markets.

Pra Photos 027 copy
A fabric shop near Prae. The owner is holding a bolt of hilltribe cotton fabric. In back of her are fine brocaded silks. All the fabrics are handwoven.

Fabric Shops

A fabric shop near Ubon Rachathani. The owner (in the blue jacket) shows us her silk scarves. This shop specialized in mudmee silk from local weavers. Reputable silk shops probably won’t bargain prices, and if they do it will be a very small percentage.

The best place to purchase authentic Thai silk is at fabric shops that specialize in the fabric. I would never buy silk fabric from a store that also sells tourist trinkets or non-fabric items. Stay with dedicated silk fabric vendors. Their stores should have a plentiful selection of Thai silk bolts.

In Bangkok, I highly recommend “The Silk Zone” located on the 2nd Floor of the Old Siam Plaza: 203-4 Treepetch Rd., Pranakorn, Bangkok. The “Silk Zone” will have dozens of independent silk vendors and their prices are reasonable. I’ve been there and have closely inspected their stock and spoken at length to the owners.

You will find dedicated silk shops throughout Thailand in the silk weaving provinces. Kon Gan, Chonobot, Surin and its surrounding villages, Lamphun, and Ubon Rachasima, and Kalisin are all cities and towns that are well populated withwill silk shops that will sell authentic, quality Thai silk at market rates.

A fabric store in the "Silk Zone" in Bangkok. The owner onced worked as a sericulturist for Jim Thompson in Korat. I purchased the bolt of mudmee silk that's being displayed for $90. A decent price.
A silk vendor at the “Silk Zone” in Bangkok. I purchased this bolt of mudmee silk for $90 (US). A pretty decent price, especially for Bangkok.

Following The Golden Rule

So how do you follow the golden rule of knowing the silk seller with a fabric shop you’ve never been too? Look around the store. Has it been in business for a long time? Does it have a good inventory of Thai silk? Is it quality Thai silk? Are the prices too good to be true? (If so, head for the door quick.) These questions can be answered by just looking around.

Engage the owner in conversation about his Thai silk if he speaks English. Does he seem to know what he’s talking about? Is he enthusiastic about Thai silk or just trying to get you to buy anything? If the fabric shop is in rural Thailand, do you see any old wooden looms around. Often there’s one or two in back of the shop. Do you see any silk yarns strung up or other signs of silk weaving? Seeing evidence of actual silk weaving usually means you’ve found a legitimate seller.

So you see, by just using a little common sense and friendly conversation, you will start to get a good idea about the fabric shop and the authenticity of their silk.

Above is our chief pillow maker measuring a bolt of fabric with my wife. The other woman owns the silk shop and designed this bolt of silk. She proudly showed us a photo of herself with Queen Sirikit who gave her an commendation for excellence in silk weaving. Now that’s a pretty good credential to have!

 Buying From A Village Weaving Cooperative

The majority of silk I buy is from small village cooperatives where the silk is actually woven. In these rural villages, the weavers have pooled their fabrics for sale in a village silk shop and usually sell by consignment. These rural, village silk shops differ from their bigger city counterparts in that the silk fabrics for sale will all be produced in their village.

Purchasing from a village silk cooperative will afford you the highest assurance of buying authentic Thai silk.

Praewa Silk fabric
Praewa silk is displayed in a fabric store specializing in this sought-after fabric.

Dressmaker/Tailor Shops

Often the easiest way to find authentic Thai silk is at a dressmaker’s shop in the big cities of Bangkok or Chiang Mai. These shops often carry an inventory of very good quality Thai silk.

Skilled dressmakers (or tailors) will make for you a variety of Thai silk apparel including professional business suits, evening jackets, skirts, and depending on the proper drape, an array of dresses and blouses.

Thai Silk Dressmaker's Shop
A dressmaker’s shop in Bangkok called Dandara. For one price, you can choose your Thai silk and they will custom make a formal outfit. Prices will run about $500-$800 (US) for top quality brocades including the dressmaking. A pretty good deal.

Dressmakers can also provide valuable consultation for your silk shopping. Discuss purchasing Thai silk for an outfit and she’ll be happy to tell you places to go and how much you’ll need. (about 4 yards for professional suit jacket and matching skirt.) Most dressmakers are more than happy if you bring them the fabric to make your outfit. Any decent dressmaker anywhere in Thailand will know the best local fabric shops to purchase Thai silk.

A Silk Safari to Essan

If you have the time and a sense of adventure, then going on a silk safari to Esaan is the best way to purchase Thai silk. Remember with Thai silk the journey is as rewarding as the destination.

Esaan is silk country and home to sticky rice, Isaan sausage, Thai roast chicken, fermented red ant eggs (a delicacy) and of course somtom, the spicy green papaya salad that Thais can’t get enough of. This is the land of the Angor Wat style ruins of Pi Mai and Phanon Rung. It is also the poorest region of Thailand and least visited.

A small Isaan village just outside Si-sa-ket. This is Thai silk country. In their humble homes with antique wooden looms, Isaan women produce the finest silk..
The owner of a village silk shop in Isaan shows off her mudmee silk. She’s holding up tie-dyed mudmee silk yarns that are ready for the loom.  To the right are examples of her mudmee silk.

Best Places to Buy Silk in Esaan

Chonobot. This is my number one recommendation because of the quality of silk, especially mudmee silk, available and the ease of finding it. The town is located about 25 kilometers south of Kon Gan. On the Main Street of this small town are lots of silk shops. You can simply park your car and started walking from shop to shop.

Surin. This would be my second choice for a silk safari. This town is located about an 8 hour drive from Bangkok. You will find a central silk market in town and fabric shops. Eight kilometers from Surin lies Ban Tha Sawang. Go there! You’ll see some of the finest silk in The Kingdom being woven and a huge selection of fabrics to choose from. Ban Sawai, Ban Chan Rom, Ban Sinarin are all silk weaving villages near Surin.

Praewa silk scarves are recognized as some of the finest hand weaving in The Kingdom. You won’t find these for sale at any tourist bizarre or market. The smallest scarves will cost $50-$100 (US).

Ban Phon. This is a village in near Kalasin where the famous Praewa silk is woven. This village is close enough to Chonobot so that you could visit both places in a single day. I own several Praewa scarves and I treat them as museum pieces.

Korat aka Nakorn Rachasima. I haven’t bought silk from Korat in years, but it has many excellent silk fabric shops. Korat is the second largest city in Thailand and about a 6 hour drive from Bangkok. Pack Thong Chai is a very famous silk weaving village that is only 31 kilometers from Korat.

The Korat area will always have a special place in Thai silk history because it was in this district that the legendary Jim Thompson, the original Thai silk entrepreneur, built his organic silk farm and breathed life into a dying art. (For more info about Jim Thompson I wrote: Jim Thompson as a blog entry.

The above list of places to buy silk in Isaan is no where near exclusive. I’ve merely touched on a few of the “biggies”. Villages near Ubon Rachatani and Ubon Thani produce fine silks. If you go north and cross into Laos (really just an extension of Thailand that the French grabbed in their colonial days.) you’ll find exquisite silk being produced in Vien Tien.

If your only reason for going on a silk safari to Isaan is to get a better price, then you’re better off canceling your trip. By the time you factor in hotels and transportation costs, you’ll quickly realize that you saved precious little. But if you want to get off the well-beaten tourist trail and seek a little adventure, then by all means contemplate a silk safari to Isaan.

Recognizing Authentic Thai Silk (or how to avoid counterfeits!)

Brocaded Thai silk on a loom. There are no shortcuts to quality.

There is no substitute for experience. Educating yourself to some of the most basic aspects of Thai silk will help you immensely not only in avoiding frauds, but also in recognizing quality. There is no single attribute or characteristic that will easily determine if a bolt of fabric is authentic Thai silk. It’s really a combination of all the characteristics below and your common sense.

The Price Test: There are no cut-rate bargains for Thai silk as explained earlier, especially for good quality Thai silk. If you paid $20 (or some other ridiculously low amount) for a bolt of “Thai brocaded silk” you flunked the price test. If I told you I bought a Rolex at a Bangkok street market for $100, would you believe the watch to be authentic? The price test is really nothing more than using basic common sense.

Here’s an extremely generalized price outline for handwoven, quality Thai silk. But please remember prices can vary tremendously because of levels of quality and the type of silk yarns used (All prices in US dollars):  Small simple scarves $20-$30. Large Scarves $30-$100. Mudmee Sarong Bolt (1.6 meters) $75-$800. Brocaded Dressmakers Bolt (4 meters) $200-$1,500. Small Praewa scarf $75. Praewa sarong bolt $150-$1,000. Solid color dupioni is sold by the yard $15-$40/yard. (A skilled weaver can produce 12-18 yards of simple, solid color silk fabric on a manual loom a day. That’s why it’s so inexpensive.)

The Feel: Thai silk is often a slightly scratchy, somewhat stiff, sturdy fabric. Generally it is not soft and lightweight (but there are always exceptions depending on how the silk was finished or washed.) Thai silk will soften with washing, but new Thai silk should feel like the rough-tough fabric it is. (Silk filaments are stronger than an equal filament of forged steel.) I have run my fingers over myriad pieces of Thai silk over the years, and I can tell within seconds if the fabric is authentic.

Thai silk at the Silk Zone in Bangkok
Got silk? When at a silk shop, take the opportunity to touch and feel the fabric. You will quickly develop an expertise on how authentic Thai silk feels.

The Weave: Thai silk is handwoven. Therefore, imperfections will exist in the weave. Only mechanical looms can crank out a flawless weave. Even The Kingdom’s best weavers can’t produce a flawless weave for a variety of reasons. (Usually due to inherent slubbing of the Thai silk yarns.)

Study the fabric very closely. Hold it up to your eye or bend over for a closer look. Try to find small imperfections in the weave or pattern. When you spot a small imperfection, that’s a good thing. It means you’re looking at handwoven silk.

Beware: Mechanical looms can be and are programmed to produce “flaws” and mimic the texture of handwoven fabrics.

Thai silk slubbing
Above Photo: Good quality mudmee silk. The imperfections of the weave are called “slubs”, which are nits of yarn. Common also with Thai silk are “bulge lines”. These common imperfections are indications of authenticity.

Slubbing: Slubbing can differentiate authentic Thai silk from a counterfeit faster than anything else. Slubbing occurs with fabric that has been handwoven from a silk yarn that’s made with rough, uneven silk filament. The plying (intertwining) of two or more silk threads into a silk yarn increases the slubbing. Thai silk is such a fabric and is often made from multi-plied silk yarns.

Thai silk slubs
Silk slubs can be easily seen on bottom of the photo. You can see the “bumpy” weft yarn used to weave this piece inside the wooden shuttle.
With dupioni silk, the weaver deliberately creates slubbing and bulge lines to give the fabric character and texture.

As a weaver creates her fabric, she almost always looms with inconsistent yarns that produce the slub. A slub looks like a knot of thread and they can be large or very small. Or it can appear as a bulging of thread across a weave-line of the fabric.

Slubbing can give the handwoven fabric great character. I have many times chosen a heavily slubbed bolt over another because I preferred the character of the slubbing. And remember, dupioni Thai silk is deliberately slubbed which gives it its famous texture.

Beware: Mechanical looms can easily programmed to produce fabric with slubs.

The Edges: Handwoven fabrics have rough, uneven edges of the bolt. Mechanical looms produce fabric edges that are smooth and clean. Always look to the edges of the fabric and make sure they’re rough and uneven. Also, the edges of handwoven fabrics is an area that it’s often the easiest to see slubbing.


A few words about the width of a bolt of Thai silk: Almost all Thai Silk will come in a bolt that was woven approximately 34-40 inches in diameter. It very rarely will exceed that dimension, because very few wooden looms can weave greater than that. Of course if you’re buying scarves or shawls, the weaver obviously used a much narrower fabric format.

The Shimmer: A famous attribute of Thai silk is that it shimmers when you hold it up to a light and undulate the fabric. The reason is simple. In weaving Thai silk, a different colored silk yarn is often used for the horizontal and vertical yarns. (AKA-the weft and warp yarns) This is what produces the shimmering effect.

Shimmering Thai Silk
This is 100% Thai silk fabric that appears to shimmer without undulating it. This effect is accomplished by using a silk yarn composed of 4 individual threads (4-Ply) that are each dyed a different color and twisted together into a single silk yarn.

Many Thai silk fabrics will shimmer; but many won’t as the weaver chose to use the same color wend and warp yarns. A general rule is that solid color Thai silk should shimmer, but patterned Thai silk may not. Mudmee Thai silk (more on this type of silk later) often does not shimmer.

Beware: The easiest trick in fabric counterfeits is to make the fabric shimmer. It’s quite simple to have a mechanical loom weave with a different color yarn for the weft/warp. It’s an old tourist market trick to tell a gullible customer a fabric must be Thai silk because it shimmers and then undulate the fabric in front of the tourist’s face.

The Totality of Indicia: Other than the golden rule of knowing your seller, no single indicia is proof positive you are buying authentic, handwoven Thai silk. It’s a combination of all the above indicia that’s important.


An exquisite brocaded silk from Lamphun Province.

What makes one bolt of Thai silk better than another bolt, other than the sheer preference of the buyer?

The Quality of the Weave. The quality of the weave is the most important attribute. Obviously, handwoven fabrics are only as good as the weaver that produced them. There are expert weavers, journey-woman weavers, novice weavers and just plain bad weavers.

Study carefully the actual weave. Is it tight? How common are the flaws? How obvious are the flaws? Is the slubbing a good thing as with dupioni silk or a bad thing as with brocaded silk? Is the pattern complex and precisely duplicated across the bolt? What about the dying or color of the fabric? Is the color(s) consistent across the bolt?

These are all quality issues. In other words, a quality piece of Thai silk will have a tight weave with very few flaws. Any slubbing will increase the character of the bolt, not decrease it. Any pattern, whether brocaded, woven or mudmee, will be consistent both in design and replication. The bolt will have consistent color.

The Type of Weave. The basic weaves of brocaded, dupioni and mudmee are not equal in terms of the expertise needed to produce the fabric.

Fine brocaded Thai silk will always be considered “better” quality than a dupioni weave, just based on the expertise required. Weaving a brocade is more complicated than weaving most dupioni.

Mudmee weaving can be extremely complex and so fine mudmee silk is given an exalted quality status by Thai silk connesuirs, myself included. The more colors in the mudmee pattern means a more complicated weave that demands more precision. The “tightness” or resolution and complexity of the mudmee pattern is crucial to a quality determination.

The Quality of the Silk Yarn. Silk yarns are not equal in quality. The best yarns are made from reeled silk, and the worst are made with spun silk. Reeled silk is made from long, unbroken filaments of silk which not only have the highest luster, but are also the strongest. Spun silk is made from the remnants of reeled silk or defective silk cocoons. The shortness of the filaments makes for a dull silk yarn.

The different grades and types/purposes of silk yarns is a complex subject which I explain in detail in “Thai Sericulture: Making Silk“.

So quality simply presents itself as the following question: How complicated was the weave; how well accomplished was that weave; and what is the quality of the silk yarns used by the weaver?

Quality mudmee weave is often determined by the clarity of the pattern as well as the quality of the weave. The above mudmee silk example shows very good clarity of pattern and superb weaving skills.


Although I gave some basic pricing parameters earlier, let me say a little more about how Thai silk fabric is priced.

Unfortunately, price information can be the least useful information. That’s because so many factors go into arriving at a fair price for a bolt of silk that it’s difficult to compare prices unless the silk fabrics are essentially the same.

For example, you really can’t compare the price of brocaded silk to mudmee silk. One may cost more than another, but that doesn’t mean the less expensive silk is an inferior silk; or that the more expensive is de facto “better”.

Pricing factors include complexity of the weave; the time it took the weaver to produce the fabric; the quality of the silk yarns, the quality of the weave; natural dyes or commercial dyes; the pattern and color scheme and lastly, the overall beauty of the fabric.

In other words, buying Thai silk is somewhat like buying artwork. Personal tastes heavily influence the amount you’re willing to pay for a bolt.

Mudmee silk yarns are tied and dyed then hung up to dry.

Price Bargaining. You can try to bargain prices if you feel the need to; but at good fabric stores and village cooperatives you may not be very successful. Again, there are no bargains in Thai silk only fair deals.

If you feel a piece of Thai silk is being offered to you at an inflated price, you may want to think about not buying anything from that seller. After all, how much confidence can you have in a person that tries to gouge you???

In a legitimate fabric shop or cooperative, the seller of authentic Thai silk will at most offer a very small discount in the range of 3%-5%. Often prices are not negotiable at all. If a fabric shop owner first offers you a bolt at 10,000 baht, but at some point lowers the price to $6000 baht, I would highly recommend NOT buying from that seller.

The fact that a seller won’t bargain is a good omen of legitimacy and authenticity. I come to buy Thai silk, not engage in cat and mouse games that waste everyone’s time and result in bad deals!

Dressmakers, Seamstresses and Your Thai Silk

Often the purpose of buying a bolt of Thai silk is so you can take that fabric to a dressmaker of your choice in Thailand to have whatever apparel you would like made. Or you may want to take your silk fabric to a curtain maker. Dupioni silk makes the best curtains.

In other words, the purchase of your Thai silk was actually the first step toward having something special made . When you enter a fabric store, you should already have a good idea as to what the end use of the fabric will be.

Thai dressmakers will be very enthusiastic about your acquiring silk for them to make apparel from. The dressmaker will tell you how much fabric you need to buy to make the apparel you’re interested in.

If curtains are your end game, make sure you take window measurements before leaving for Thailand. There are many seamstress shops throughout Thailand that specialize in custom curtains. Our home has Thai silk curtains in almost every room. Make sure to have your seamstress line your Thai silk curtains for protection from the sun.

The Dressmakers Bolt. Buying Thai silk fabric really is like going back to an earlier time. Thai silk is still commonly woven in what’s called dressmaker’s bolts.

A dressmaker’s bolt is a single bolt about 4 yards long (no coincidence that this is the exact yardage you need for a single woman’s suit or dress), with half the bolt being the pattern and the other half is the solid color that perfectly matches the pattern’s color.

This is exactly what your dressmaker needs to make you that stunning professional woman’s suit. You and your dressmaker will decide how to use the solid color and the pattern to your liking.

So if you’re ultimate goal is to make a coordinated jacket and skirt from your Thai silk, I highly recommend that when shopping in fabric stores to give special attention to their dressmaker bolts. They’re made exclusively for your purpose.

Pre-Made Silk Apparel and Assesories: You can buy pre-made apparel of Thai silk and you’ll see it available at many fabric stores and upscale botiques, especially in Bangkok. You can purchase beautiful Thai silk purses and handbags from these same boutiques and upscale department stores. And of course you’ll find a large selection of silk scarves, ties, etc. sold at many venues.

If this is your goal, you have little need to purchase the actual Thai silk fabric. In fact if your goal is buy blouses, purses, scarves, handbags, etc., I highly recommend shopping at Jim Thompson stores. Jim Thompson was the first Thai silk entrepreneur and the company he started in the 1950s, still exists today and offers some of the most beautiful Thai silk creations available.

Natural and Commercial Dyes

Commercial dyes are commonly used for Thai silk. Commercial dyes make for a colorfast fabric that can be washed repeatedly and won’t bleed. If you plan to use your Thai silk for apparel, handbags or curtains, then you must make sure commercial dyes were used and not natural dyes.

Natural dyes (plant dyes) are not colorfast and cannot be washed at all without severely degrading the color. Also, if you wear or sit on a natural dyed fabric, the dye will rub off on you.

I was once given a beautiful bolt of green shimmering, irredescent Thai silk that used natural dyes. I mistakenly washed it and when the fabric came out of the washing machine it was ruined, with almost all it’s natural dyes gone. I have sold naturally dyed mudmee silk pillows that customers complain bleed onto their clothing.

Naturally dyed Thai silk is much sought after by collectors who will purchase a specific bolt to add to their collection. The fabric will not be worn or washed.

Silk that is naturally dyed is much more expensive that commercially dyed silk. It takes a lot more skill and labor to dye fabric with natural plants that with commercial dyes. Prices can easily double or triple for naturally dyed Thai silk.


If you’re interested in Thai fabrics or Thai hand-weaving, please see the many other blog entries I’ve written.

The Thai Fabric Chronicles


  1. A very informative and excellent blog.. I have a question.. I would like to buy some Royal Brocaded Thai Silk as a saree gift for my Mom. Can you please advise what’s the best place to buy one in Thailand? I am yet to plan my trip so I can visit any part of the country to buy the same. Price is not an issue as I am looking for something that is top quality and something she can cherish to have for a long time.


    • Hi Badrinath. Thanks for contacting me. Royal Thai silk is usually commissioned before weaving and is not sold in a store to the general public because of the time/cost. But you can certainly purchase top-grade brocaded silk as a gift for your mom. I have two recommendations: 1. Go to Baan Ta-Sawaeng (very near to Surin) and walk about the village and see what the weavers have for sale. This village weaves the finest brocades in Thailand in my opinion. 2. Go to Chonobot (near Kon Gan) and shop the different silk shops in this small town. Here’s a recommended store: Meeudom Thai Silk (Owner: Supong Hinthaow) 229/1-2 Moo 4 Sribubreung Rd. Chonnobot, Khon Kaen, Thailand 40180. Tele: 66-43-287192. Best of luck!


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