An Intro to Thai Fabrics

Textile madness in the old garment district in Chiang Mai.

A Beginning

Thailand is the land of fabrics. They’re given far more cultural importance than in most other countries. Thai fabrics, and especially Thai handwoven fabrics, are a surviving thread to a way of life mostly forgotten.  Thai fabrics are an easy gateway to finding Old Siam.

Thai Weavers
Photo Above: Weavers at work in Jomtong, Thailand.

Over many years, I have acquired an expertise in Thai fabrics-especially handwoven textiles.  Not a historical expertise, but a purchasing expertise. In this multi-part series about Thai fabrics, I’ll give you a personal view into an often hidden world of Thai weaving and fabric making.

I realized quite early in my learning curve about Thai fabrics that the quest was as rewarding (and often more so) as the fabric itself. I think of my many trips and excursions to locate Thai textiles as “fabric safaris”.

Photo Above: My wife, Jenny, viewing fabrics in Northern Thailand.

I have criss-crossed Old Siam by car, especially Esaan, (Northeast Thailand) and The North searching for village weavers and coaxing them to show me their looms and fabrics. I am always accompanied by my Thai wife Jenny who bridges the culture gap between my farang self and villagers who have very little contact with my culture.

With little trouble, my wife will strike up a conversation with a village weaver. More weavers join in to chat; dogs that were barking now wag their tails; children appear; doors open; we’re taken through humble homes to the looms in the back; weavers proudly show me their work and the techniques used to weave that specific fabric. A successful fabric safari!

Fabric Shopping in Chiang Mai
Photo Above: Fabric shopping in Chiang Mai.

To have even a cursory knowledge of Thai textiles, you must be competent in 3 aspects:

  1. Authenticity. The Thai fabric trade is fraught with fakes, especially the silk trade and Hill Tribe wares. Can you tell the difference between Thai silk and its counterfeits? Can you spot the fake Hill Tribe purse from the authentic one? Warning! The counterfeits, especially for Thai silk, can be extremely convincing.
  2. Quality. Thai fabrics, especially the handwovens, are not created equal. Some Thai silks are cheap and low grade and can be bought for $10/meter; while others are exquisite and may be a great deal at $300/meter.
  3. Source. Where do you find authentic, good quality fabrics in Thailand? Hint…authentic, good quality fabrics, especially silk, are not found at tourist markets.
Thai Batik
Photo Above: A woman creates a batik fabric design by stamping hot wax on fabric.

In these fabric essays,  I’ll teach you to recognize authentic, quality handwoven silk, cotton & mudmee. It is my business to know these fabrics, their sources and their prices. You will not find quality fabrics at tourist bazaars or night markets. You will not find “great deals” on Thai silk. (If you do, it just means you’ve been taken. Sorry to be so blunt.) But what you can find are quality fabrics at a fair price throughout Thailand. But to do so, you must first either leave the tourist trail far behind, or be prepared to pay a fairly steep price. And secondly, you must have some knowledge of Thai fabrics.

The Thai Fabric Chronicles

Thai cotton fabrics
Photo Above: Handwoven fabrics and designs in a small, rural textile shop in northern Thailand.

Throughout rural areas of Thailand, old wooden looms clank, wack and turn out some of the most beautiful fabrics of the world. With the exception of commercial dyes, handwoven textile production hasn’t changed in centuries. Traditional Thai fabrics are a portal to a time long ago. Old Siam.


  1. The fabric importer Thai Silks in Los Altos, CA used to carry a line of Thai silkscreened cottons that were densely-woven and wore like iron. This was back in the 70’s. They no longer carry them, and my inquiries have yielded no information. I’d like to know where I might obtain these fabrics today. Is anyone in this forum familiar with them?

  2. Thankyou for your thorough and generous response. I think the term “mudmee” is used to refer to different things, the ikat weaving you refer to and a specialized form of tiedye. The kind I am interested in is the mudmee tie-dye clothing , such as is made by the company , Just Zen. I don’t speak Thai, but perhaps I can learn by imitation and observation or find a translator. Do you know where this kind of tie-dye dye is made?
    Thanks so much for your help! Warm regards! Suzanne

    • Hi Suzanne,
      Mudmee weaving is a very specific Thai weaving term which means that the pattern of the fabric being woven will be carried exclusively by the weft yarn, although at times you’ll find it carried in the warp but this is very rare. This weft yarn is dyed before being set up on the loom and carries a specific and often complex pattern. This type of weaving is called “mudmee” in Thailand, but is referred to as “ikat” throughout the rest of the world.

      I checked out and they sell very nice tie-dyed clothing that has nothing to do with mudmee weaving. The clothing being sold by this website is not mudmee weaving and really shares no common ground with actual mudmee fabric.

      I highly recommend reading my blog entry about Thai mudmee fabric to get a good idea about this type of weaving.
      -Jeff at

      • Thankyou for your clarification. I guess they just borrowed the name ” mudmee”! But, I do love this form of tie-dye and apparently it is a dying art. If you happen to learn where there are artist studios doing this
        I would appreciate you letting me know. They do amazing work. I would love to apprentice with them. I don’t mean centers where they offer superficial tie-dye dye workshops with tourists. I mean serious artists. Your work with the mudmee weavers sounds wonderful. Thanks for your help. Suzanne

  3. I am interested in learning mudmee “tie-dye”, (not weaving) techniques on cotton. I understand that there are few studios that know this work and don’t share their knowledge easily.
    Do you know where I would find them and if they would agree to teach me?. I am a Canadian art therapist who has experimented with tie-dye, but am particularly attracted to
    mudmee techniques. Are there any outside of Bangkok that are really experienced?

    • Hi Suzanne,

      Please keep in mind that mudmee is a weaving technique also known as ikat weaving. I’m assuming you’ve read my blog chapter about Mudmee. (If not, you can find a link to the mudmee chapter on the “Intro to Thai Fabrics” blog post near the bottom of the article. Thai weavers are happy to share their knowledge about how mudmee fabrics are dyed and a pattern is created. Mudmee is woven in Esaan (northeast Thailand) and a little bit in the north. I’m not aware of any mudmee weaving going on in Bangkok. The dying techniques are the same for either cotton or silk. Your question is mostly a cultural question about how to find a mudmee cooperative that will share their knowledge with you. Do you speak Thai? Most weavers only speak a little English if any. I would start your journey in Chonobot, which is a small town known for its mudmee near Kon Gan. You can visit and try to develop freindships. Talk to the store owners who sell mudmee. They can take you to where the mudmee is made. You need to develop a relationship with the weavers as the first step in your journey. Best of luck.

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